Metsovo Greece: A Winter Retreat in the Pindus Mountains

The picturesque village of Metsovo sits high in the Pindus Mountains of Northern Greece. While little is known about Metsovo internationally, it is a popular winter getaway destination for Greeks. The village is characterised by its quaint stone houses and signature red roofs. 

The culture of Metsovo is somewhat different from that of most Greek villages. This is because Metsovo is a Vlach settlement. Vlachs are an ethnic minority group who reside in mountainous parts of Greece and the wider Balkans. Their precise origins are not known. Metsovo residents speak the local dialect of Vlach/Aromanian, in addition to modern Greek. 

About Metsovo 

Metsovo sounds like a rugged, off the beaten path destination, but upon arrival, you will find that it is quite a touristic village. Visitors here are predominantly Greek domestic tourists – they come into Metsovo for the day on the bus from Ioannina.

The main streets are filled with traditional tavernas and souvenir stores that sell local delicatessen products (cured meats, and cheeses), as well as wooden handicrafts. All things considered, this touristic element does not detract from the charm of the village. 

During the 17th and 18th centuries, Metsovo was an important town for wool production, and this was traded in nearby Ioannina, across the Balkans, and even as far as Africa!

Things to do in Metsovo 

A trip to Metsovo is more about enjoying the natural scenery around you, taking in the crisp mountain air, and enjoying a more laid back pace of life. Two days here is plenty, or if you have limited time on your schedule, you can take the bus from Ioannina to Metsovo in the morning and return in the evening. 

A suggestion of the best things to do in Metsovo are detailed below. 

Shop for Local Produce and Handicrafts 

Metsovo is locally renowned for its namesake Metsovone cheese – a smoked, semi-hard cheese produced from a mixture of sheep and cow milk. You will find an abundance of this at the local delicatessens and gift shops as it hangs outside the storefronts in its phallic-shaped packaging.

Other regional cheeses that make nice edible souvenirs are the semi-hard metsovella cheese, and the Metsovo graviera cheese made from ewe’s milk. If you don’t really consider yourself a connoisseur of cheese, you can find homemade jams, preserved fruits, and dry local wine. Store owners will carefully wrap everything for you so that you can easily transport it back home. 

Discover Eerie Abandoned Monasteries 

Two interesting abandoned monasteries sit just outside the centre of Metsovo: The Monastery of Agios Nikolaos, and the Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi. The former can easily be reached on foot. It sits in the woodland some 30 minutes from Metsovo. The monastery dates back to the 13th century and though weathered by time and the elements, it contains some breathtaking frescoes. 

The Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi is equally worthwhile if you have your own transport. It awaits, perched on a plateau filled with oak trees, just off the main road that connects Metsovo with Anthochori. Dating back to the 17th century, the monastery once provided shelter for caravan traders travelling through the Balkans. Its monks were slaughtered during an Ottoman invasion in 1820, and it has been abandoned ever since.

Embark on a Scenic Hike 

Numerous scenic hiking trails twist and turn through the landscapes of little Metsovo. All trails are well sign-posted, leading through peaceful woodlands, past abandoned monasteries, and secluded villages. 

The most notable trail in the area is the Ursa trail – a 40km footpath that leads around the circumference of Metsovo, passing through the Grand Forest, the meadows of Politsoara, and the ski resort of Karakoli. The route has been recognised as being one of the best hiking trails in Europe, though it’s fairly remote, so you should be mindful of that if travelling alone. Metsovo hikes can be conquered all year round, though snow is not uncommon during the winter months. 

Sample the Local Specialty Dishes

Greek cuisine is globally recognised for its sumptuous, marinated meats, and its fresh vegetables. Besides the classics though, each region of Greece also has its own local delicacies.  

Metsovo could be considered a paradise for meat lovers, and among its plentiful dining options, the barbeque joint “Τα 5 ΦΦΦΦΦ” at Averof 1 stands out among the crowd. Kontosouvli is a beloved local dish – slow-roasted pork cooked on a spit over a charcoal fire pit. Head to Τα 5 ΦΦΦΦΦ for a generous portion at an excellent value. 

Other dishes worth adding to your Metsovo culinary radar are the country sausages, lamb served with cauliflower and the boiled cauliflower. If a light snack is what you are after, try the traditional local pies on sale at the old bakeries. Galatopita (milk pie), hortopita (pie with greens) and karidopita (walnut pie) are Evritania classics.  

Indulge in Art and Wine at the Katogi Averoff Winery & Museum

Restaurants and gift stores around Metsovo sell Katogi wine – a dry Greek wine that is produced at the village’s Katogi Winery. The mountainous vineyards here are the highest in Greece. 

It is possible to have a free tour of the winery and learn about the process of making wine. If you call/email the winery in advance, you can also organise a tasting. Unfortunately during my trip, Katogi winery did not respond to my emails so I was unable to participate in this. 

Within the same premises, Katogi Averoff also houses the E.Averoff art gallery. The gallery displays the works of renowned and emerging Greek artists. Collections range from modern, contemporary pieces, to sculptures, fine art, drawings, and engravings. 

Stop for Coffee, Drinks, and Panoramic Views 

There are few pastimes more quintessentially Greek than going out for coffee – whether that be frappe, freddo, Elliniko, or espresso. In the village square, you will see a few old-timers playing backgammon as they sip traditional Greek coffee.

Κρήνη Cafe Wine Spirit at Tositsa 20 is a cute place to stop for coffee or evening drinks. The little stone two-story coffee place is decorated with shabby chic decor and an open fire. They serve a selection of homemade cakes and light bites for breakfast or brunch. The nearby Metsovorama Cafe Bar is the place to go to enjoy mountain views as you sip your morning coffee or your evening cocktails.

Stroll Around the Narrow Cobbled Streets

The centre of Metsovo is dominated by an intricate network of labyrinth-like cobbled streets and passageways. Wandering the streets here feels like a journey back in time. Spend some time to just explore the little streets of Metsovo at leisure – stopping to admire the occasional artisan store or delicatessen. 

In the village square, you can find the beautiful church of Agia Paraskevi. A few blocks away, there is the church of Agios Georgios – now abandoned and overgrown with moss, yet eerily beautiful. 

If you wish to obtain a little more history of the area, you can consider stopping by the Metsovo folklore museum. The exhibits are housed inside a grand 19th-century mansion that once belonged to the noble Tossizza family. Weapons and recovered artifacts from the 19th-century resistance against the Turkish occupation are on display here. 

Visit the Aoos Springs Lake 

If you have your own transport in Metsovo, you can drive out to the Aoos lake. The lake is situated 25km away from Metsovo centre and is a pleasant half-day trip in any season. The lake glistens in a magnificent shade of sapphire, and there is a lovely footpath that you can follow around its circumference. 

In the warmer months, you will see Vlach shepherds tending to their sheep in the farmlands that surround the lake, and wild horses running free along its grassy banks. The lake is man-made and artificial, now home to some rare and impressive flora, fauna, and wildlife. 

Test Your Ski Skills 

The reason many Greeks venture to Metsovo is for skiing. There are three resorts in this area: Karakoli, Zygos, and Politsies. There is something for everyone at the ski centres – whether you are an experienced skier or a complete newbie. Lessons and equipment rentals are available on site. 

Where to Stay in Metsovo 

There are plenty of well-rated hotels scattered across Metsovo. It is advisable to book at least a few days in advance, particularly in the peak Christmas season, to secure your preferred option. Some Metsovo hotels you may want to consider are detailed below. 

Aroma Dryos Eco & Design Hotel

Aroma Dryos hotel is the definitive choice for a luxury stay in Metsovo. The stone-built property boasts elegantly decorated, spacious rooms with exposed brick walls, private balconies, and open fireplaces. A generous continental breakfast is included in the room cost and is enjoyed by an open fire in the lounge. You can browse the latest rates and availability at Aroma Dryos here. Rooms start from £70 a night.

Archontiko Metsovou Luxury Boutique Hotel

Archontiko Metsovou is a second luxury property in Metsovo worth considering. Those looking for an indulgent mountain retreat will love the facilities at Arcontiko. 

The hotel has a spa centre on-site which features a traditional hammam, whirlpool baths, massage chairs, and swimming pools. The relaxation theme continues into the private rooms, all of which boast a spa bath, and stylish decor. Breakfast is included in the room costs. You can browse the latest rates and availability here. Rooms start from £70 a night.

Hotel Bitouni

I stayed at Hotel Bitouni in Metsovo. At £25 a night, this was the most budget accommodation in town. Don’t let the low price put you off.

The rooms and beds were very cosy, and the hotel was owned by a sweet Greek family. I had incredible views over the mountain from my window. This is the option I’d recommend if you are travelling through Greece on a tight budget.

Getting to Metsovo

The easiest way to get to Metsovo is to take the bus from Ioannina station. This runs at 6:00 am and 14:00 pm every day. Metsovo is 50km north of Ioannina, and the journey takes one hour. One day in Metsovo is sufficient, or you can opt to stay overnight in one of the cosy family-owned guest houses here. 

 If you are renting a car in Greece, by all means, drive to Metsovo. There is free parking in the centre of the village, and a lot of the hotels here have their own parking lots. Be prepared for narrow roads as you make your journey through the Pindus Mountains

Metsovo is a wonderful place for a weekend getaway during the winter months. If you have any further questions or queries, feel free to comment below and I’ll get back to you soonest. Safe travels! Geia sou! Melissa xo 

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