Discovering Old City Jerusalem

Speeding westwards and leaving the trendy modern city of Tel Aviv behind in our dust, my bus bypassed kibbutzes and small Israeli settlements before drawing to a halt at Damascus Gate, one of the ancient entrances to the Old City of Jerusalem, which still functions as a main point of entry to this day.

A far cry from the urban sprawl I’d left behind, the trendy coffee bars that inhabit Tel Aviv’s boulevards had been replaced with ramshackle eateries selling halal meats, Turkish baklava, and Arabic mint tea; the chic boutiques traded in for spice and fabric markets from which local vendors yelled out about their wares – each claiming to offer better quality and value than he who came before. Arriving in Jerusalem was like stepping back in time or crossing the border into a new country. The time warp continued as I passed through the crumbling stone arches of Damascus gate.

Once you enter the old city, getting lost among the labyrinth of winding alleyways and bustling souks is easy. Owing to its significance in the main monotheistic religions, the old city is divided into four sections based on the predominant belief in that neighborhood – The Islamic Quarter, The Jewish Quarter, The Christian Quarter, and the Armenian Quarter.

Old City Jerusalem
The magnificent Dome of the Rock in the Muslim quarter, Old City Jerusalem

From Damascus Gate, one will find themselves on the approach to the Muslim Quarter – the mysterious scent of frankincense lingers in the air, and glistening in the distance beneath the Middle Eastern sun awaits the Dome of the Rock – the iconic sight that you see depicted in many an image of Jerusalem and the religious structure which marks the epicenter of the city’s Islamic quarter.

As many pilgrims had done, I entered the Temple Mount through the Bab-al-Silsila. The atmosphere was tense – armed Israeli military and sniffer dogs occupied almost every corner on the approach to the entrance; all those that entered had to pass through an explosives detector and have their pockets, bags, and person checked thoroughly before entry was granted reminding each that you are never too far from potential conflict in this part of the World.

Old City Jerusalem
Old City Jerusalem

Once inside the Temple Mount, the atmosphere had changed drastically to peace and serenity. Cyprus trees, floral displays, and water fountains occupied the grounds around the beautiful Dome of the Rock. Unfortunately, as a non-Muslim, I was not allowed inside, but I stood back. I admired the elaborate decorations and the colorful structure before passing through the souks and re-entering the heart of Jerusalem’s old city.

Old City Jerusalem
Old City Jerusalem

The Christian and Armenian districts of the city almost blended into one. It was difficult to determine where one started and the other ended. The ancient cobbled streets in this area mark the route where Jesus is believed to have walked on his final journey towards crucifixion.

Copper signs displaying Roman numerals mark the point where notable scenes from the Bible took place. A stone said to be the one which Jesus rested upon while struggling to balance the cross on his back, lies behind protective casing, having acquired an almost super-natural appearance with a handprint now visible in the stone as a result of generations of devout Christians wanting to touch it to become closer to Jesus.

As I follow the route towards the Church of the Holy Sepulchre which now stands over the site where Jesus is believed to have been crucified, I have to step aside from time to time to make way for Ethiopian Christians carrying crucifixes, and following the same path as their savior.

Old City Jerusalem
Old City Jerusalem

Whether you are religious or not, Jerusalem is certainly an interesting city since it holds so much significance in the eyes of many religions. At the wailing wall, Orthodox and Conservative Jews crammed their wishes and prayers into small crevices present on the ancient structure, talking, crying, and praying as they do so.  Some people found it difficult to contain their emotions, having finally arrived at the places that they had learned of and hoped to visit their whole lives through.

Old City Jerusalem
Old City Jerusalem

The predominant reason that Jerusalem appears in the Western media is to notify us that there has been a clash of sorts – perhaps religious, or political. Certainly, the presence of so many Israeli military men on the streets here make for a tense atmosphere, but what the media tends to forget to acknowledge is that Jerusalem is a city of regular people living their lives like you and I, much like any other place in the World.

The fact that so many extremely religious people with opposing views coexist so peacefully alongside each other may come as something of a surprise, but provides a good role model for the rest of the world, and brings hope to the ideology that one day Israel and Palestine can also peacefully cohabit and reconcile.


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Guided Tours vs. Solo Exploration at Old City Jerusalem

Exploring the Old City of Jerusalem offers two distinct experiences: guided tours and solo exploration, each catering to different traveler preferences.

Guided Tours:

  • Expert Insights: Guides provide historical context, uncovering the layers of history beneath the city’s stones.
  • Convenience: Navigating the labyrinthine alleys is easier with someone familiar with the routes.
  • Educational Value: Learn about the cultural significance of landmarks, often missing in self-guided trips.
  • Social Interaction: Tours offer the chance to meet fellow travelers.

Solo Exploration:

  • Flexibility: Move at your own pace, choosing what interests you most.
  • Personal Discovery: Stumbling upon hidden gems offers a sense of adventure.
  • Immersive Experience: Engaging directly with locals enhances cultural understanding.
  • Cost-Effective: Avoid the fees associated with organized tours.

Both options provide unique ways to engage with the things to do in Jerusalem, whether you seek the depth of knowledge a guided tour offers or the freedom and personal satisfaction of discovering the Old City on your terms.

Cultural Etiquette and Tips for Respectful Visits in Old City Jerusalem

Visiting Old City Jerusalem, a melting pot of cultural and religious significance, demands a mindful approach to respect the diverse traditions present. Here are key etiquette tips:

  • Dress Code: Modesty is paramount. Opt for attire covering shoulders and knees, especially when entering religious sites. Scarves or wraps can be handy for impromptu visits.
  • Photography: Always ask permission before capturing photos of locals or inside sacred places. Some areas may restrict photography altogether, so look for signs or ask a guide.
  • Interaction with Locals: Approach interactions with sensitivity. Learning a few phrases in Hebrew or Arabic can go a long way in showing respect and enhancing your connection with the community.
  • Visiting Religious Sites: Silence and solemnity are expected. Turn off your mobile phone and avoid loud conversations. Observe and follow any specific entry guidelines provided.
  • Solo Female Travel: Jerusalem is a welcoming city for solo female travelers. Still, adhering to cultural norms around dress and behavior is incredibly crucial. Explore our guide on “solo female travel” in Jerusalem for more insights.

These tips are not just about following rules; they’re about showing respect for the history and heart of Jerusalem. Whether wandering through the labyrinthine alleyways or standing in awe at a site of ancient worship, a respectful demeanor ensures a richer, more meaningful experience.

Accommodation Options within the Old City Jerusalem

Nestled within the ancient walls of Old City Jerusalem, visitors can find a mosaic of accommodation options catering to every traveler’s needs and budget. From the cozy corners of budget hostels, ideal for those exploring Israel on a shoestring, to the opulent quarters of luxury hotels that offer panoramic views of the city’s historic sites, there’s a place for everyone.

  • Hostels: Perfect for backpackers or solo travelers, these offer a communal experience and are a stone’s throw away from major attractions. They’re excellent for those interested in Israel budget travel, blending affordability with cultural immersion.
  • Boutique Hotels: For those seeking a blend of comfort and character, boutique hotels in the Old City offer unique themes based on Jerusalem’s rich history, combining modern amenities with traditional aesthetics.
  • Luxury Hotels: Positioned near iconic landmarks, these hotels provide top-tier services, exquisite dining experiences, and breathtaking views, catering to those wishing to experience Jerusalem in utmost comfort.
  • Guesthouses and B&Bs: Offering a more intimate setting, these accommodations are often family-run and provide a homely atmosphere, perfect for travelers looking to connect with local culture and history.

Each accommodation type not only offers a place to rest but also serves as a gateway to the Old City’s timeless charm, ensuring that every traveler’s journey is both comfortable and unforgettable.

Looking for accommodation inspiration? Take a look at this handy guide on where to stay in Jerusalem.

Parting Words

As we conclude our journey through Old City Jerusalem, we are reminded of the rich tapestry of cultures, histories, and religions that coexist within its ancient walls. Each stone and street tells a story of faith, resilience, and humanity’s quest for the sacred. Whether you’re wandering through bustling bazaars, reflecting at revered holy sites, or finding serenity in hidden courtyards, Jerusalem invites you to discover its storied past and your place within its timeless narrative.

For those intrigued by Jerusalem’s ancient allure, ensuring you have the correct documentation is paramount. Preparing your Israel passport is crucial for a seamless journey. Whether you’re a history buff, spiritual seeker, or cultural enthusiast, having your passport ready opens the door to exploring the rich tapestry of Old City Jerusalem and beyond.

What part of Old City Jerusalem captivated you the most, or what are you most excited to discover on your visit? Share your thoughts, experiences, or questions below. Let’s create a vibrant community of Jerusalem explorers eager to dive deep into the heart of this historic city.


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Alice Cooper is a British Travel Writer and Blogger based in Athens, Greece. She writes for numerous high profile travel publications across the globe - including Forbes Travel Guide, Matador Network, The Times of Israel and The Huffington Post.

3 Comments

  1. Jerusalem looks so beautiful. I really would love to travel to Israel as I’ve heard so many good things about the country. I love your photos! Did you travel by yourself?

    1. Thanks Chloe! I definitely recommend it. It’s been one of my favourite places so far. Yeah I travelled there alone but I never felt unsafe or uncomfortable – it’s quite a liberal country and Israelis are incredibly friendly and welcoming!

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